Why would anyone want to descend into the dark depths when a crisp October sun was shining on the cobbles of the largest medieval square of Europe, flanked by a medieval Cloth Hall, the continent's second-oldest university, a Gothic church and Cukiernas dispensing the traditional creamcrammed pastry? As it turned out, this journey now ranks among my most mine-blowing experiences. For over 900 years, kings and scientists, engineers and humble miners have upgraded what nature created 15 million ye
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